NUFFIC Field Visit to Rasuwa - Day II

We woke up early in the morning with lots of enthusiasm. Though it was cold, we managed to walk through the village. The alleyways were filthy, partly because of the rain at night and partly because of the lack of awareness in cleanliness. But, it was true that they were at least trying to keep the village clean. The hamlet lies on the sloppy terrains with a cluster of not more than twenty houses. Most of the houses were one storied and stone roofed. The place was surrounded by sky-high mountains, and the running river down below made unabated whispers.

We returned to the community hall, and had our breakfast. Weather was good for trekkers. It was cloudy, but no rain. Standing on the edge of the courtyard of the community hall we could see the mountains' bases like a dovetail. As time passed, the host bade farewell to everybody with offering Khada. We wished them good businesses in coming days. After finishing this ritual, we started our journey downhill in different convenient groups. Raman was a FIT.

It was dangerous to walk down on the sloppy hill with lots of dry strands of pine trees. It slips like anything if we don't heed on it. We had to be careful. We enjoyed our journey chatting and taking photographs on the way. Photographs are evidence of your journey, and also memory slides. Your memories rolls and slides around those times when you shuffle later on. Memories may be good or bad but when you recall them from a distance they are equally felt sweet.

I don't know exactly when we reached the hotel for the lunch. I guess it was 12:30 pm. Someone was talking that the last gang appeared 1 and ½ hours later of the first gang's arrival at Thambuchet where we had planned to have our lunch. And, of course, we were not the last gang. Thambuchet is a small village, and lies at the confluence of rivers at 1800 m. There were about 20 houses, some of them as hotels. Some huts were in dilapidated conditions, and an unused disk of VSAT gave false impression of good infrastructures. After having lunch, we walked again through the same village, crossed the same bridge towards our destination. Today's our destination is Tatopani (hot water spirng) famous for bathing. People believe that the hot spring would heal skin diseases. That is the main attraction of visiting the place more than anything else.

I had taken a book "Raktakunda" to avoid boredom during the journey. It was a much talked book at that time. We walked in various groups. Some gang walked fast, some slow and some in between. I thought I could make use of the time and divert my mind from the boring trudge. I started reading the book while walking, also paying ample attention on the path. It was a unique experience. But, I could not continue for long. Most of the time we discussed and debated about the issues and event mentioned in the book.

The book was a collection of already known facts and some guess work. The writer didn't sell the book, but sold the time. He published it on the background and climax of reactions of royal massacre. There were more than a dozen of this type of books in the market. I read the book and others listened. Everybody walked in a rhythm as if they were tuned to a favorite radio program.

We crossed another bridge on the way, now our journey would follow a uphill climb. Gobinda was like a wild goat, moves fast in such terrains. He got this nick in Austria during our trekking. By and by, I handed the book over to him for recital. He read in loud voice, and we listened as we steadily climbed the hill. I don't remember most of the recital but the act of Gobinda. Soon, we dropped the idea of recital because of two main reasons firstly our eyes became busy with observing the scenic beauties around, and secondly it became mundane.

On the way, we relaxed for sometime, and ordered tea in the stable like only hut existed there. Some slow friends met us there, and after some time we started the boring and difficult ascend. The eyes always run faster than the legs. Physically it takes a lot of time and effort to reach there. What next? Inquisitiveness always attracts travelers during the journey.

When we reached on top of the hillock, we could see our destination far away. I thought it would take about 2 hours to get there. The gentle slope of the trail was much easier to walk than the previous vertical scale. Some friends were way ahead and they safely and comfortably reached the venue, and fixed the menu. Some of us could not be so lucky. Drizzles started on the way which accelerated our walking. At the same time, it made me totally exhausted. Weather became colder as time slipped away. I totally tired walking and outrun by the heavy rain. There is nowhere a shade to stop. The final lap of the journey was indeed very difficult because it was like climbing a ladder. When I reached the small tavern like hotel some of my friends were already in the rooms. Outside, it was becoming darker and colder. We asked for the bonfire because there is no alternate way to keep us warm. We knew that it's not proper to use woods as fuel. What could we do? We felt warm while sitting around the fire-place in a circle. The wisdom of books and minds smiled wryly at us. Some of our friends were still on the way. We worried about them. Finally, they appeared like ghosts in the dark totally drenched in the rain. It was still pouring. We drank tea, ate noodles and biscuits to keep us warm and gained energy. Again, Gobinda recited the book, this time for all who were on the fire-place. I took light dinner, and went to sleep. It's too cold that I could not sleep at all. I don't know how I spent the night forget about others.

NUFFIC Field Visit to Rasuwa - Day I

Our group was big enough to fill up a 25 seater bus. Everybody was eager to start the journey, actually it was a field trip; a part of Nuffic Training. We had planned to set out at 8:00 in the morning. Head counting started to make sure everyone's presence. Someone yelled, "Raise your hand if you are not here." Laughter roared. Everyone but Ujjawala was missing from the pack. Finally, she came and we left at 9:30 to Ghatlang, our destination.

We hadn't had breakfast, and wished we could have taken during our waiting hours. But, anytime we had to move like soldiers. In fact, we were on standby. When the bus started wheeling smoothly through the city, everyone seemed busy talking with nearest partners in the bus. Traffic was not that much busy. We crossed Ring Road, and speeded towards Kakani through dense jungle on winding road. Weather was cool and cloudy.

Not finding a proper toilet is a common problem while traveling by bus. We faced the same problem, but we were not afraid of providing tonics to nearby plants on a hillock in a row.

We took snacks in a small bazaar after crossing the pass of Kakani, but we didn't find enough choices to eat. All of us drank tea and ate fried peas and Rotis. Weather became cold and foggy. When we started to move Trisuli Bazaar, I felt uneasy. My health deteriorated, and I couldn't enjoy at all. Finally, when we arrived down the valley, I vomited profusely and felt better. We had our lunch at a nearby hotel. Dal, Bhat and Masu were good. Hygiene? Doubtful !

Road was good until some minutes' travel, but soon bumpy gravel road started. It continued until we reached at Dhunche, the headquarter of Rasuwa district. Occasionally, rain spattered. There was a huge landside on entire face of a mountain at a certain place. When we reached there, we realized it was too dangerous to pass through the muddy and rough road. A helpless bus was trying in vain to pass through the sloppy road. We all got off from the bus, and tried to help with our all but little might. At this moment of frustration, for the first time, some friends chastised our Hero, Mr. Bainya the coordinator of this trip for not arranging mini buses. The mini bus could pass the road easily, they thought. I will mention the second rebuke later. It was indeed a very disheartening event, watching helplessly and time slipping away fast. You still had to go a long way to get your destination. We all brought stones big enough to put on the wheels so that the bus could move without sliding. At last, with our efforts and by the grace of god, the bus crossed that dangerous hurdle. Then, we moved cheerfully to Dhunche. In every rainy season, this road becomes dangerous for plying vehicles. This is a common problem with roads in hilly regions. Road incidents and accidents are often heard in the news. Do the policy makers know this? Yes, they know it all. Cobwebs of commission most of the time don't allow to solve the problem once and for all.

We stopped just to say hello to Dhunche, drank tea and hurriedly started our journey again. We stopped at Sabrubesi for a while and headed towards our final destination. The serpentine road was breathtaking just the other side of Sebru. Our pleasure of seeing all those sceneries soon faded away. Just at the corner of the road a mini truck was in utter fatigue just like a fish without water. The truck was helplessly trying to come up, and the only narrow road was completely blocked without leaving any margin of road. We stranded for a while. Again, by the lord's wish, the truck succeeded in achieving its mission.

When we crossed the small village down the road, it was already dark. Now, the anguish of everyone increased. At one point, we had to ask where about our destination. Nobody including our guide knew the way even if the road was liner. And, the height of the situation was, we couldn't find anyone to ask the question. We ran here and there in dark, finally someone got the information.

This was the time our hero again got more than enough scolding especially from female participants for not fixing the right destination for night halt. We could have halted at Dhunche or Sebrubesi. Just imagine, the road is rough, bumpy, and narrow; you drive in complete darkness with dim light of the bus. Augmenting the danger, the weather was foggy and the bus itself was big and weighty for the narrow and graveled road. We continued our journey in such hair-rising and heart-holding situations for an hour or so. I remember a poem by Bhupi Sherchan;

Hami bir chhaun,
Tar buddhu chhaun,
Hami bhuddu chhaun,
Ra ta bir chhaun,

Just before reaching our destination, the driver was trying vigorously to move forward in a narrow road. It's fortunate that Roshan who was sitting just above the rear wheels saw the wheels were going out of the way. He shouted and everybody got off immediately out of the bus. When we observed the situation, it was really awesome. Had we not noticed the danger at that moment and tried a little hard to go forward, we could have been in the news next day. What next? No options except walking with luggage in the dark with the help of fireflies like torches.

Finally, shouting and walking in the dark grappling here and there, we reached our destination, Ghatlang. It was a community hall operated by the local people. This project was supported by TRPAP. They have arranged lodging and fooding. It was nice to experience the community management. Evening was cold, local wine helped some of us to defend from it. Others preferred the bonfire with having cup of tea.

We are rich in culture. We speak around 92 spoken languages and dialects and there are 101 distinct ethnic groups. It's like half of the world squeezed in a small land. Later, local people performed cultural dances and sang songs in their language. We all enjoyed the performance, and also became the part of the dance troupe. We heard the original tune of a famous folksong "Bhedako Uan Jasto" in Tamang Language, and other folk tunes. Thanks to the singers who made it famous because we could make chorus and sang here and there.

Bhedako uan Jasto.. hoho..ho
Bhedako uan Jasto..
Tyo mathi bata ke udi aayo
Bhedako uan Jasto.. hoho..ho
Bhedako uan Jasto..
Mayako foto mai khichi linchhu
Purne ko jun jasto.. hoho..ho
Purne ko jun jasto.....

We had good fun. We forgot our disgruntle completely. And, finally, we went to bed totally exhausted. Our beddings were lined up in a big hall.

Trekking in Rasuwa

Day I

It was my first trekking trip to Rasuwa, north from Kathmandu in 2006. Mingma Sherpa, Wilson Sharma and I made a memorable trekking trip from Sebru-besi. Thrilling experience of trails, friendly chats and funs among ourselves, funs with local peoples along the trails and beautiful landscapes, walking through the Lamtang National Park (1710 sq km) and difficulties made our trip memorable. You can forget happiness easily, but never forget the hardship and difficulties.

We stayed in Lama Hotel at the first night of our journey. I was not feeling comfortable after mid-day. I thought, "I would be alright after a good sleep at night, therefore I went to bed as early as possible after having dinner, leaving my friends at warm kitchen with hotel owners. I really wanted to stay with them and wanted to take part in their chats, but it was not possible.

I had felt a pang of pain at left pelvis joint after some hours of our journey. I could make a step with great difficulty. I couldn't figure out the causes of the pain. My thoughts hovered on many possible reasons. I had made a trekking trip after a long time. I had carried a good weight on my back. We had walked in the midday heat on the upward trail.

Day II

We made our journey early in the morning. I was not perfectly alright, and the pain started again as we advanced. I was wrong to anticipate that I would be fine. I felt myself unlucky. At one moment, I thought I should stop my journey and stay behind, but I didn't express it to my friends. I would have discontinued the journey, had I walked another hour or so. My luck had it. Nima was coming down the way with his small horse. We asked him to return with us. In fact, he was coming down to meet us. I, now, could ride the horse. Getting on and off as the conditions of the trail, and also the fun ride by friends, we reached our destination in time. We stayed Nima's hotel which was newly built. We were the first guests to stay there.

Day III

I felt thrilled by the majestic view of golden mountain tops seen from the valley down below. I saw Lamtang Lirung (7,248 m ). It was a cold morning, but the day was bright. Cool breeze now and then, you feel great. You thank God. You remember your friends and family. You long for them to be with you because you cannot explain to them the feelings and experiences through words.

I felt better and walked comfortably this time. The trail was sloppy and was not so difficult. We reached our destination Kenjin Valley (4500 m) within 3 hours. We took lunch, enjoyed about two hours under the cool, bright sun. You feel the heaven on earth. People showed us non-functional airstrip from the distance. I heard that hotels would provide free beds and only would charge for food. In my opinion, this practice is not good.

We left the valley reluctantly. Returning back, we saw a monastery along the trail. We went there, talked with lamas. We prayed. A different feeling came over us.

Day IV

Again, we rested in Nima's hotel, but this time our destination was downwards. A return journey is always easy. Walking under the shadows, whispering of rivulets and chirping of birds made us happy. The local belle called us from the distance; they were the same girls to whom we had talked and made funs while coming up. Mingma had taken video shots and some photos. We bade goodbye to them shouting aloud.

We rested for a while at Ghodatabela. Ordered some hot tea hurriedly at a hut like hotel. Drank fast and left the place because it was being late. We spent the night in a lonely lodge on the mountain facing another mountain, and in between a tributary of Trisuli River. During the night, the river's incessant wrestle with rocks made mysterious sounds all through the night.

Day V

We walked fast through the national park. We had planned to have lunch at Pahiro where we had our lunch before. We had a good rest of one hour. We enjoyed talking with belle of the hotel. Then, we started to our destination Thulo-sebru. The sun was unbearable. On the way, we ate Kafal and wild berries. In turn, leeches suck our blood while passing through damp places on the way.

Day VI

We started after having breakfast for Gosainkunda (4200 m). It was sloppy trail, every now and then we had to rest under the shadow of trees. Midday heat was with its full strength. Umbrella was a little help. But, the weather changed slowly, and darkness increased. We saw a temporary shed of cow grazer on the way. Drizzle started as we walked. We went to the shed and asked for something to eat. We only found hot tea, and rested as the tea boiled. As soon as the tea was ready, we drank it and we regain strength. I had taken a FM radio to listen the news, but it was useless. Sometimes, I could hear Indian songs from a Chinese station. Drizzling rain met us on the way again. We got the main trail after a difficult five hours upward journey.

We took lunch at a hotel which was standard at that place. But, soon fog appeared like a dense smoke from all around. We could hardly see our path. We could not enjoy the scenes at all, also could not talk much with friends. It was a boring trudge. We had to inhale foggy air and exhale warm vapors. It always makes my body temperature imbalance causing stomach problem. That's why I wanted to reach a hotel as fast as possible.

Tamang Communities live in Rasuwa. They follow Buddhism. This is a reason why meat items are rare in this area except in bazaars. We also didn't try to have it since we were pilgrims.

Day VII

We started upward walking our final destination, the Gosainkunda. The morning was chilled and foggy. Wind was strong with drizzles. As we moved higher the drizzles were transformed into white feathers that came flying to us, and touched our faces. We tried to avoid them in vain. Lauribina is a place where everybody leaves one's walking stick, and takes while returning.

It took about three hours to get the Gosainkunda. By the time, we reached there, the weather unveiled its foggy shroud, allowing us to see the grandeurs of the lake and the surrounding landscapes. Three of us took holy dips in the cold water of the lake. Then, we encircled the lake in around 45 minutes. While encircling the lake two water doves welcomed us. We thought it as a good omen. We observed the huge sleeping rock under the water in the lake. People believe it as Lord Shiva. We also went to see the Amarsingh Cave. The statue was newly founded, and an iron gate was locked.